My marked 1868 trapdoor
Moderator: 45govt
My marked 1868 trapdoor
Here’s a rifle I picked up recently. It has a nice bore and I plan on shooting it as soon as I secure some .50/70 brass, I have all the other components. 42681 is the serial, block is dated 1870. It came out of NJ.
Re: My marked 1868 trapdoor
I finally secured some casings and loaded up some shells for the gun. Surprisingly it shot exactly to point of aim and was very accurate.
Re: My marked 1868 trapdoor
What load data did you use?
I've used anywhere from 57 grains to 63 grains of 2f swiss as the full 70 grains is a little hard on the shoulder .
Where is your rifle marked NJ?
I've used anywhere from 57 grains to 63 grains of 2f swiss as the full 70 grains is a little hard on the shoulder .
Where is your rifle marked NJ?
Re: My marked 1868 trapdoor
My disclaimer, I’m not encouraging anyone to load how I load and an expert should verify any gun and load for safety before shooting. This is not data to be used by others. I started off using info from an internet article in the black powder cartridge news but I found I couldn’t use the full 60 grains of powder as he did. I used an unsized lee 515-450-f bullet about 30-1 hardness I figure, lubed with half bees wax half lard pan lube, and 53 grains of 2f goex made In 1972. The casings are starline .50-70. I tried 60 grains but there was just too much powder compression and it distorted the nose of the projectile. I love the balance of the gun, the sights not so much lol. I don’t think the gun is marked NJ, the last owner found it in NJ though.
Re: My marked 1868 trapdoor
I learned years ago, DO NOT use the bullet to compress the powder charge!
With these “almost pure lead” bullets, nose deformation will result.
In my 50/70 and 45/70 loadings, (if I want a full 70 grain charge) I place 25 grs. Powder . . . .compress with a wood dowel . . .add another 25 grs. Powder . . . .compress again . . . .then add 20 more grs. and compress a third time.
Then seat the bullet.
(Most often, however, I use only 65 grs. of black.)
Re: My marked 1868 trapdoor
My mistake, when you said the rifle came out of NJ I thought it was marked NJ
I can get 63 grains “weighed” 2f in a case with a 062 wad and compress with a 20-1 lead bullet.
I also have a compression die for the full 70 grains, that’s hard on the shoulder though
For the OAL I copied an original round.
Most of my cases are once fired which is probably why I can get more powder in them?? I have a 100 bag of Starline but haven’t opened it yet.
I can get 63 grains “weighed” 2f in a case with a 062 wad and compress with a 20-1 lead bullet.
I also have a compression die for the full 70 grains, that’s hard on the shoulder though
For the OAL I copied an original round.
Most of my cases are once fired which is probably why I can get more powder in them?? I have a 100 bag of Starline but haven’t opened it yet.
Re: My marked 1868 trapdoor
Loaded up some .58 rim fire a couple weeks ago for my next trip to the range.
I use these for my 1865 1st Allin and my Parker Snow Miller Conversion. Took a while to make the cases, made around 40 so I'm good for a while.
I use these for my 1865 1st Allin and my Parker Snow Miller Conversion. Took a while to make the cases, made around 40 so I'm good for a while.
Re: My marked 1868 trapdoor
I’m glad you were able to get your .58 rimfire shooting again. I bet it’s a lot of work but pretty gratifying when you get to shoot a gun that hasn’t been fired in 100 years. The closest I’ve gotten to working with big rimfires was the Spencer centerfire conversions guys used to run when I competed in the nssa over in Winchester VA. I don’t like the seating plug supplied with the rcbs .50-70 dies, it’s basically set up for a round nose with a broad flat point. I’ve never seen a .50-70 bullet shaped like that. I agree, you can’t compress powder much at all without distorting the bullet. I will just settle for lighter loads which are easy on the shoulder at least. I have a good supply of kik powder I will break into this week, but I’m pretty satisfied with my goex loads as is. Carl, you are lucky to have that bag of brass, it’s like finding hens teeth now a days.
- Dick Hosmer
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Re: My marked 1868 trapdoor
Carl, what's your 'radius of error' in orienting the cases in the .58s? Do you have to be dead-perfect or can it be off a few degrees either way? That big hammer and strong spring delivers a crushing blow so I'd guess you have a little leeway?
Re: My marked 1868 trapdoor
Shooting it for the first time was awesome!! It probably had been well over 100 years since it was last fired. The rifle needed some new parts and I believe I found the last of those 2 little screws that connect the extractor to the extractor slide. All other parts for the 1st Allin are available except for those screws and the firing pin retainer screw. I wanted to instal a new firing pin but only the head with a couple threads come out, the rest stays inTexcl2 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 3:36 am I’m glad you were able to get your .58 rimfire shooting again. I bet it’s a lot of work but pretty gratifying when you get to shoot a gun that hasn’t been fired in 100 years. The closest I’ve gotten to working with big rimfires was the Spencer centerfire conversions guys used to run when I competed in the nssa over in Winchester VA. I don’t like the seating plug supplied with the rcbs .50-70 dies, it’s basically set up for a round nose with a broad flat point. I’ve never seen a .50-70 bullet shaped like that. I agree, you can’t compress powder much at all without distorting the bullet. I will just settle for lighter loads which are easy on the shoulder at least. I have a good supply of kik powder I will break into this week, but I’m pretty satisfied with my goex loads as is. Carl, you are lucky to have that bag of brass, it’s like finding hens teeth now a days.
You can probably find the correct bullet collet at Buffalo Arms to match the style bullet you have.
That’s where I normally buy my reloading equipment for odd calibers.