Trapdoor Rifles

I’m having a heck of a time removing the front sight blade pin. With the gun shouldered I’m driving from the left side of the gun, is this correct? Even though I have the sight base braced this is worrying me, I don’t want to knock off the base. I’ve bent two punches with no pin movement.

You may already have tried this, but just in case-----
On very fine pins, it's best to use a "starter punch". This is a thick punch (mine is 1/4") ground to an abrupt taper, about like an old Colt SAA firing pin, but with the point very slightly blunted so the flat point is a hair smaller than the pin you're trying to move. This punch has no flexibility and can't bend or break. Usually, a sharp blow with a steel hammer against a well-braced pin will break it loose and move it a few thousandths. Then the proper small punch can finish the job.
If that doesn't do the job, I'd leave it in peace and have a relaxing scotch.

I will make one up and try that. I was going to shorten one of the punches to make it more stout but I’ll try the starter punch first. I’m driving the pin Left to right (as if the gun is shouldered) is this the correct direction? After becoming frustrated, I set it aside and have it soaking in break free. This gun was reblued with the sight in place , which I believe is the root of the issue. I know the pin is tapered and don’t want to hammer on it any more until I verify the correct side to drive the pin from.Thanks for the advice!

I went to my sight box and found a carbine pin and find it is a uniform .082 dia. x .370 length. So the pin is not tapered direction of removal should not matter.Suspect the refinish caused rust to seize it in place. I use a thin lead ingot to rest the barrel on to remove pins. Solid but will not hurt finish. Hope this helps.

Toms’ use of a lead ingot is spot on . . . .

I’ve used an ingot under sight bases and driven pins through the blade/base INTO the soft lead ingot.
(Not all the way, of course . . . .)
This method will corral these pins that “like to roam.”
Use pliers to retrieve the pin from the ingot.

Thanks for the info guys, I have a 50# pig ingot of pure lead in my shop, I’ll give it a go. If it’s still stubborn after soaking in clp all this time I will probably make a jig out of some thick aluminum plate I have with a hole on one plate to drive the pin through and support the sight and the other will have a pocket to insert a cut off section of punch and I will use my shop press or vice to drive it out. Work was insane today so no progress.

Well I mounted it on the lead Ingot and it came right out. I think the wood block I was using prior had too much give plus the solvent had more time to work. Thanks again!

Update….
I was able to fit a new S&S carbine repro sight on the gun. It was very under sized width wise and had to peen the heck out of its base to get the proper fit. I profiled it to look close to an authentic profile but no one will mistake it as original. The gun originally shot very very slightly to the left so I peened the blade more on one side than the other to more it over to correct the poi. I then installed it and filed it down to zero at 100. I’m happy to say the gun is now perfectly zeroed at 100 with the sights set to 100. I also managed to perfect my reloads with the unsized lee 405 HB bullet loaded to original carbine specs. Before my groups were 6” they are now a solid 3” and I suspect it would do better if it were not for old eyes and sights. I ended up buying a .460 long expander for my lee expander die from track of the wolf which helped a lot plus using dead soft bullets among a couple other tweaks. I also left the front blade wider and perfectly square unlike the original which gives a much better sight picture. I’m very happy with the gun now as a shooter. Thanks again for all the help!